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3-colour (DBJ) Jacket - by Loulou Pirotte

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Click here for notes on how to put the shape and stitch pattern files in your usual folder.

Inspiration:  I have always been intrigued by dressmaker and tailoring details. This is inspired by a basic dressmaker shape, modified to some extent. It is important to remember that, whatever the type of dressmaker garment we want to knit, the knitted version will be different, in its fabric, from the original which is usually woven. Knitted garments will also require different construction methods.

Size: petite (Bust - waist - hips: 88 - 68 - 88 cm)

Category: **

Machine: Electronic standard gauge Brother KH970. KRC1000E colour                 changer (or any double-bed changer).

Yarns:

Total amount used: 380 grs. (132 grs off-white, 160 grs  dark grey and 88 grs black).

Tension: 0 on both carriages in DBJ. 2 on both carriages for the 2x1                ribbing, with slide lever on II. The close knit bar is used.

Gauge: 10 x 10 cm:  

Stitch pattern:

This pattern was designed in Stitch Designer and creates the impression of a magnified fabric.

Shape:

The  shape was designed  in Original Pattern Drafting.

Note: I like to take my shapes into Interactive Knitting and “knit them manually” before starting the actual knitting, to make sure everything is OK.

By “knit manually”, I mean using Interactive Knitting *without the machine*, i.e. using the UP arrow tool.

Knitting tips

  1. It is also possible to add those stitches when the carriage is on the opposite side, using a separate piece of yarn. Actually, I prefer this method. To cast on those stitches, I knit them manually (Knitted back e-wrap ) and transfer the heels of the stitches from the main bed to the ribber.  
    When adding stitches in double-bed work, it may be difficult to hang a cast-on comb, especially if you already have a large number of stitches in work. To work around this, I cast on the new stitches (Knitted back e-wrap), transfer the heels of the stitches from main bed to ribber, place a ravel cord over the newly cast on stitches and pull down on the ravel cord, from under the beds, until the knitting  is long enough to hang a comb and/or weights.
  2. The small “>” shape in the front facing is constructed to remove excess fabric at the point of the
    V-neck when the facing is folded in. The shaping tag is H and this is short rowed. In the same way, the inverted “V” shapes, at collar level, are constructed to remove excess fabric.

Note : if you have not integrated the piece with the pattern using the cut and sew option from Stitch Designer’s Shapes menu, this part (in the collar) will be knitted in a single section.
If you don’t feel confident enough to short row in double-bed jacquard, you can either:

  1. Use cut and sew for this deleted “dart”.
  2. If your yarn is very fine, avoid short rowing and knit the shape without this ‘dart’. You will then ‘fold’ the fabric over itself and form a mitre when you finish the jacket.
Download shape file