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Diagonal Pintuck Sweater - by Loulou Pirotte

Download shape file

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Click here for notes on how to put the shape file in your usual folder.

  Size: petite (Bust - waist - hips: 88 - 68 - 88 cm)

  Category: **

  Machine: Brother KH970, electronic standard gauge.

  Yarn: Linea Più Classico Mou, 2/28 Nm, 65% merino - 35%   angora. 1 strand.

  Total amount used: 400 grs.

 Tension:

  Gauge: 10 x 10 cm:  


Stitch Pattern before and after Cut and Sew

This project is entirely cut and sewn.

The picture on the left shows the pieces on the mannequin, with all the excess fabric that will be serged off.

The picture on the right shows the result after serging off the excess fabric, and linking small circular bands to the serged off seams.

The picture below shows the collar. It is removable and, depending on how you place it, it can be worn ‘rounded’, as in the picture, or ‘pointed’. This is because of how its shape was constructed (see shape file).

 Stitch pattern:

*2 rows  in full needle rib (both beds) at tension 0 on both carriaqes with slide lever on II, followed by 6 pintuck rows (on one bed only), at tension 2 on both carriages, slide lever on I*. Repeat *-*.

  1. If you push in the 2 PART buttons on the main carriage, the ‘public’ side of the fabric will face you while knitting. The pintucks are formed on the ribber.
  2. If, instead, you push up the 2 PR buttons on the ribber carriage, the pintucks are formed on the main bed  and the wrong side will face you while knitting.

I chose the second technique.

  Shape:

  The shape was designed in Original Pattern Drafting.

  The file has 9 pieces: Front tool, back tool, front, back, front 1 and 2, back 1 and 2, collar.

   The cuffs and edgings, knitted separately, are not represented in the shape file.

  1. Point 13 has been added on the side seam, about 5 cm below the sleeve (see marker).
  2. Point 12 has been dragged  by 2 cm to the right, toward the centre seam. The table can also be used.
  3. Point 7 has been dragged downwards by about 2 cm.
  4. Use the curve tool to trace a curve between points 12 and 7.
  1. Point 14 has been added on the side seam, about 5 cm below the sleeve (see marker).
  2. Point 13 has been dragged  by 2 cm to the right, toward the centre seam. The table can also be used.
  3. Point 8 has been dragged upwards by about 6 cm.
  4. Use the curve tool to trace a curve between points 13 and 8.
  1. After the integration and Cut and Sew steps, the ’pintuck shape’ will show against a ‘stocking stitch background’.
  2. Pintucks form a horizontal pattern when you knit them. Therefore, before integration, I had to choose the best orientation for each piece, not only in order to have diagonal lines but also for the “ease of knitting”. Indeed, although this is a cut and sewn project, there will be a lot of hand manipulation while knitting, i.e. moving stitches from one bed to the other as the ‘pintuck shape’ itself ‘evolves’ on the ‘stocking stitch background’.
  3. After taking the shapes, in different orientations, to Interactive knitting to knit them manually (i.e. without the machine, using the UP arrow key),  I found it was easier to start each piece from the neckline. Therefore I rotated each piece by 135° (Alter/Rotate).
  4. I then integrated each piece with the stitch pattern in Stitch Designer and selected Shapes/Cut and Sew. I selected a (very contrasting) LMB colour that was not yet used in the pattern and chose LMB (RMB) colour and Fill Outside. The LMB colour will then be outside the piece.
  5. After the Integration and Cut and Sew steps, the 4 pieces are named back1.stp, back2.stp, front 1.stp and front 2.stp. (These cut and sew patterns are not downloadable using the button below, as the garment size can’t easily be altered in them. Any changes in size can be made more easily to the shape file in Original Pattern Drafting so that the cut and sew patterns you make in steps 4 & 5 are then automatically the right size.)
  1. Remember you will be knitting stitch pattern files, not shape files. Therefore: back 1.stp, Back 2.stp, Front 1.stp, front 2.stp. Do not open the shape file in interactive knitting!
  2. Do  not forget to update the tension  (Options/Tensions).
  3. You can see the *shape* (alternating red and white stripes) against the plain colour background.
    The  *shape * actually corresponds to the ‘pattern needles’ on both the main bed and the ribber while the  main bed needles surrounding the *shape* are the excess fabric (stocking stitch) that will be serged off.

  Knitting tips and finishing

  1. With the right side of the fabric facing you and the piece upwards, place one half front (or back or sleeve) onto the point needles.
  2. Place the open stitches of one edge of the circular band on the same point needles, waste knitting downwards.
  3. With the right side of the fabric facing you and the piece downwards place the other half front (or back or sleeve) onto the point needles.
  4. Fold the circular band towards you and place the open stitches on the point needles with the waste knitting downwards.
  5. Note: make sure you link your neckband first, before linking the second sleeve!
  1. Knit 5 repeats of the main pattern (pintucks) and end this part with 2 Full Needle Rib rows.
  2. Continue knitting in Full Needle Rib for the depth required.
  3. Since my cuff is 19 cm high, I needed regular increases. These are fully-fashioned with a 2-prong tool, on both beds at the same time.
Download stitch pattern file