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Full Needle Rib Long Stitch Jacket - by Loulou Pirotte

Download shape file

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Click here for notes on how to put the shape file in your usual folder.

There is no stitch pattern to download for this garment.

Inspiration: I have always been intrigued by dressmaker and tailoring details. This is inspired by a basic dressmaker shape, modified to some extent. It is important to remember that, whatever the type of dressmaker garment we want to knit, the knitted version will be different, in its fabric, from the original which is usually woven. Knitted garments will also require different construction methods.

Size: petite (Bust - waist - hips: 88 - 68 - 88 cm)

Category: *

Machine: Electronic standard gauge Brother KH965i

Yarn: 100% wool, Molins (Paris), 2/28 Nm. 2 strands.

Total amount used: 550grs.

Tension: 1 on both carriages, with slide lever on II.  The close knit bar  is used.

Gauge: 10 x 10 cm:  36 stitches x 88 rows.


Stitch pattern:



Shape:

The  shape was designed in Original Pattern Drafting.

Note: I like to take my shapes into Interactive Knitting and “knit them manually” before starting the actual knitting, to make sure everything is OK.

By “knit manually”, I mean using Interactive Knitting *without the machine*, i.e. using the UP arrow tool.

Knitting tips and finishing

  1. With the 4-prong tool, move in 4 stitches by one stitch.
  2. Next, move in all stitches on both beds to fill the empty needles.
  1. It is also possible to add those stitches when the carriage is on the opposite side, using a separate piece of yarn. Actually, I prefer this method. To cast on those stitches, I knit them manually (Knitted back e-wrap ) and transfer the heels of the stitches from the main bed to the ribber.  
    When adding stitches in double-bed work, it may be difficult to hang a cast-on comb, especially if you already have a large number of stitches in work. To work around this, I cast on the new stitches (Knitted back e-wrap), transfer the heels of the stitches from main bed to ribber, place a ravel cord over the newly cast on stitches and pull down on the ravel cord, from under the beds, until the knitting  is long enough to hang a comb and/or weights.
  2. The small “>” shape in the front facing is constructed to remove excess fabric at the point of the
    V-neck when the facing is folded in. The shaping tag is H and this is short rowed. In the same way, the inverted “V” shapes, at collar level, are constructed to remove excess fabric.
  1. 3 pintucks on each front and 6  on the back piece (3 on either side of the centre).
  2. They all start on the same row/same distance from the folding line of the hem.
  3. The height of each pintuck is different: 17, 20 and 23 cm, part of this measurement below the waist line and part above it and the distance between each pintuck is 3 cm.
  4. As a guide, you can baste between the 2 stitches you added for each pintuck, over the height/ number of rows of each pintuck.
  5. Sew the pintucks: you can either back stitch them or use the linker. If you use the linker, position the pintucks on the linker so that the chain stitch is facing the side seam.