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Knitwoven Bolero - by Loulou Pirotte

Size: petite (Bust - waist - hips: 88 - 68 - 88 cm)

Category: *

Machine: Electronic standard gauge Brother KH965.

Yarns:

• Main yarn: Linea Più Classico Mou, 2/28 Nm, 65% merino - 35% angora. 2 strands.
• Weaving yarn: Pïnori Filati,  Nm 2000, (unknown composition and yarn name). 1 strand. (See picture of yarn below).

Total amount used: 220 grs - (100 grs main yarn - 120 grs  weaving yarn).

Tension:

• Knitweave: 6
• Circular rows:  from “ minus o ” on both carriages, slide lever on II  to 2 on both carriages, slide lever on I (see below).

Gauge: 10 x 10 cm:  

• Knitweave: 26 stitches x 40 rows.
• Circular rows: 4 rows (i.e. 8 carriage passes) = 0.5 cm.

Stitch pattern:

Pattern #461 in the Stitch World book. This pattern is in DesignaKnit 8’s library (Stitch patterns/Brother/Stitch_World).

This pattern is the traditional 1 x 1 birdseye but the weaving yarn makes it look different.

Knitting method: F

Stitch pattern and shape are integrated.

The weaving yarn is threaded through the tension mast.

Knit this bolero interactively, shape only.

Shape:

The  basic shape (back, fronts and sleeve) was created in Standard Garment Styling and tweaked in Original Pattern Drafting.

• I like to create  set-in sleeve shapes in DesignaKnit Standard Garment Styling. I save my file as “xxx SGS” before opening the shape in Original Pattern Drafting so I can get back to it easily if I want to make some changes.
• In the Body Measurements window, I always give the measurements of the finished garment.
• Knitting is forgiving! I use no ease and even negative  ease, namely for the shoulder measurement. I want the shoulder line at shoulder point, not off the shoulder.
• When tweaking the shape in Original Pattern Drafting, make sure you do not change any points that may affect the height of the sleeve cap (armhole depth, shoulder width, sleeve width, bust measurement).
• I started from a basic set-in, round neck cardigan.
• Sleeve cap: you will notice that the shape is fairly unusual since the piece is extended from the end of the actual cap over a height of 9 cm. This is to produce some excess fabric that will act as a shoulder pad.
  You can either leave it flat  (under the shoulder seam or under the sleeve cap) or roll it over itself for a ‘shoulder pad effect’).
• Note: You can take your shapes into Interactive Knitting and “knit them manually” before starting the actual knitting, to make sure everything is OK.

By “knit manually”, I mean using Interactive Knitting *without the machine*, i.e. using the UP arrow tool.

Knitting tips  and finishing

• Every piece starts with 4 circular rows (i.e. 8 carriage passes) with 2 strands of the main yarn.  Cast on and 6 carriage passes are knitted at tension ‘minus 0’  on both carriages, with slide lever on II, followed by 2 carriage passes at tension 2 on both carriages and slide lever on I.
• Tension “minus 0” means you set the tension dials as far as they will go below 0.
• Shaping is with a 2-prong tool.
• All the pieces were linked together.
• To link the sleeve to the armhole:

1. Baste between the 2 markers on either side of the ‘actual edge’ of the sleeve cap (not the edge of the ‘additional cap’).
2. Mark the centre of the sleeve just under the basted line.
3. Place the armhole, right side facing, on the linker’s needles.
4. Place the sleeve, wrong side facing, on those needles. Follow the basted line at the top of the sleeve.
5. NB: do step 4 in 2 operations. (Half the sleeve at a time).