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Ski Underwear Suit: sweater and leggings - by Christine Sabot

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Inspiration:

• This is a special order from my daughter who wished to have warm underwear to wear under a ski suit. The shape of the jumper is a very classical one which can be used over and over again, in many colours and textures. The length of the leggings is mid-calf as it has to be just above the height of the ski boots but can be adapted to suit other needs.
  Both items are knitted in ribs for a tight fit (and warmth).
• Since the two items will be dyed in purple, I used leftovers of two shades of beige.

Size: :  M. (Bust - waist - hips : 92 - 67 - 96 cm) - Height : 168 cm

Category: *

Machine: Passap E6000 (or any standard or fine gauge machine).

Yarn: Nm 2/28 ; 70% merino - 30% cashmere. 2 strands.

Total amount used : 400 grs.

Tension:

• 2 x 2 industrial ribs: 2.5 - 2.5
• 5 x 2 ribs: 4 – 2

Gauge: 10 x 10 cm

• 5 x 2 ribs: 36 stitches x 61 rows
• Industrial 2 x 2 ribs: 36 stitches x 80 rows

Click here for notes on how to put the shape file in your usual folder.

There is no stitch pattern to download for this garment.

Stitch pattern

• The back and the 2 fronts start with 2 cm in industrial 2 x 2 ribs (but the height of the ribs can be adjusted).
• The  legs start with 5 cm in industrial 2 x 2 ribs and the last 4 cms of the pieces can be knitted in industrial 2 x 2 ribs (waist band).
• To go from industrial 2 x 2 ribs to 5 x 2 ribs,  transfer the 2 back bed stitches to the opposite front bed needle.

Shape

• The basic shapes (back, front, sleeves and leggings) were created in DesignaKnit Original Pattern Drafting to my daughter’s measurements.
• For the front piece, for instance, I first draw a rectangle, total length by half bust measurement.
• Then I use the vertical mirror and place the waist, the shoulder, the underarm.
• Next, I trace the armhole and the neckline.
• I copy and paste this block to draw the back, and reshape the back neckline and the armholes.
• For the sleeve, I start from a rectangle, total length by width, and proceed with the vertical mirror to shape the sleeve head.
• For the Leggings,  I first draw a rectangle, total length by width.
• Then I shape both sides of the leg (symmetrical), front crotch (less curved) and back crotch  (more curved). The crotch depth  varies from person to person,  so measure on a garment which has a nice fit. Otherwise, to measure the crotch depth, sit on a flat, hard surface and measure from waist to the surface. The crotch length is measured from waist at the centre front, between the legs and back up to the waist at centre back.
• As this garment is tight fitting, a gusset is inserted, for comfort, to avoid seams.

Knitting tips and finishing

Jumper

• I do not bother with the neckline when knitting front and back.
• To finish each shoulder, I transfer all the stitches  to the front bed,  short row them and remove each piece on a contrasting waste yarn. I cast them off with a backstitch through the open stitches.
• Then I join the two shoulders and steam each piece without stretching the ribs.
• I fold the back and front (joined at the shoulders) along the centre front and the centre back, and then gently cut out the neckline (do not cut too much).
  Since the pieces are steamed, the cut stitches will not unravel. Gently secure the neckline either with the serger or the sewing machine (zigzag). In either case, be careful not to pull on the pieces.
  It’s time to try on the neckline and, if need be, shape it again until you are satisfied.
• Next, sew the sleeves, and backstitch the neckband (finished on contrasting yarn and previously mattress stitched to close it) around the neckline.
• The last step is the final steaming of the shoulder seams, side seams, sleeve seams.
• Tip: To make steaming the shoulders easier, I made an “ironing shoulder pad” by sewing together 5 thick shoulder pads.
• For a neat finish, do a hem stitch around  the inside seam of the neckline.

Leggings

• Gently steam each piece without stretching the ribs.
• Join each piece along the leg’s inside seam, leaving the last 5 cm unstitched. Join the two pieces together centre front and centre back.
• Then insert the gusset, shorter diagonal between centre front and centre back, and longer diagonal along the leg’s inside seams.
• Fold in the  waist band, insert a smooth and flat elastic band (it will have to go over your hips) adjusted to your waist measurement, and sew it with a hem stitch on the inside.